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  1115 Main Street
  Manchester, CT 06040
  860-646-1631
 
Customer Care Center

Visit Pinewood Furniture's customer care center for up-to-date tips on wood finishing and furniture care.

 

 

Waterbase Finishing Application Guide

Hand Application

Surface Preparation

All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Sand raw wood in the direction of the grain starting with a coarser grit sand paper such #120, and finish the final sanding with a finer grit sandpaper such as #220.  Water base finishes need a smoother surface than oil base finishes. Do not use tack cloths when using water based finish. Tack cloths contain oil and will contaminate the surface. On certain woods such as oak and ash, pre-wet the wood with a damp cloth to raise the grain before final sanding. Allow the dampened wood to dry 30 minutes before the final sanding. This will provide a smoother final finish.

Temperature and humidity

Water base finishes must be applied at temperatures above 65 F. Cooler temperatures will adversely affect how the finish will level and harden, causing fish-eyes or craters. If it is cold enough to wear a sweater it is too cold to apply a water base finish. The surface of the wood must also be warm. If you turn the heat on when you enter your shop in the morning, the air heats up quickly but your furniture will still be cold for some time. Check the surface to see if it is warm. Also, check the temperature of the finish. Warming cold finish by setting the can next to a heater or setting the container in some hot water for 5 minutes will improve the ease of application.

In hot temperatures (85F – 100F) the finish may dry too fast. Use  Extender to open (increase) the dry time. Finishes that dry too fast may not completely level out before all the water evaporates from the finish. This can result in a poor appearance.

High humidity can cause the finishes to take longer to dry but will not harm the final finish.

Applying waterbase stains

Stains contain colored pigments that often settle to the bottom of the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take several  minutes to thoroughly mix the contents of the can so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up.

Do a test  on the piece first on the back, bottom or other inconspicuous area check the stain color before proceeding. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like the look, one coat staining is adequate. If the stain is too light or uneven, a second coat of stain may be needed before the topcoat is applied.

Stain one surface at a time.  Apply waterbase stains LIBERALLY, keeping the surface you are working on wet with product until you are ready to wipe that section off.  As you stain each area, remove excess stain by wiping with a cloth.  It is important to wipe off the stain thoroughly and consistently (in the direction of the grain) to get an evenly stained surface. A second coat, applied after the first one is dry, will give you a darker and deeper color.  Never sand a stain coat, only top coats.

Maintenance and care

Water base finishes take 7 days before they are ready for daily use. To maintain the finish clean surface with a damp washcloth and wipe dry. Cleaners such as Pledge and Murphy’s Oil Soap are not recommended because they leave a dull residue on the finish. Polishes such as lemon oil or orange oil work well for routine maintenance.

 

Restoring an old surface

Top coats may be recoated at any time in the future. Simply wipe down the surface with mineral spirits to remove any grease or dirt, lightly sand with #320 or finer, and then apply another coat.

 

Mixing and Tinting

Mix Gloss and satin together to get a Semi-gloss top coat. Tinting may be accomplished by adding 10 to 20%  Stain to Top Coat.

 

 

Milk Paints and Glaze Effects

 

 

Milk Paints

Classic interior/exterior paints for use with furniture, crafts, cabinets and outdoor furniture.  Uniquely engineered from the latest paint technology, Milk Paints can be used directly from the can to produce a high quality satin sheen.  Milk Paint can applied directly to raw wood, but the use of primer is recommended on heavy grained woods such as Oak, Parawood, or Pine, or if you’re covering a dark wood with a light color. Primer also seals the wood providing a good base for paint to adhere to and may save you an extra paint coat.  Use Red Primer under darker colors and White Primer under lighter colors. 

A. Before applying primer, sand raw wood in the direction of the grain starting with a coarser grit sand paper such #120, and finish the final sanding with a finer grit sandpaper such as #220. Remove dust with air or a damp cloth. Do not use sticky tack cloths.  Stir primer thoroughly.  Apply evenly following grain with a Handipainter pad or foam brush. Milk Paints and Primer can also be sprayed.  Refer to product label for instructions. Dry time 2-4 hours.

B.  Stir Milk Paint thoroughly.  Apply over bare wood or over primed surface (see previous paragraph for sanding and primer information) with Handipainter pad or foam brush. Normal dry time is 2-4 hours.  Heavy coats, high humidity, and cooler temperatures may lengthen dry time for up to 8-10 hours.

C.   Buff between coats using #320 -#400 grit paper or #320/superfine sanding pads.  Two to three coats of Milk Paint are recommended.  Apply PolyAcrylic, High Performance, or Pro Series topcoats for added durability or to increase sheen.

 

 

 

 

 

Wipe-on Gel Oil Base Application Guide

1. Surface Preparation

All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Fill all nail holes with putty before sanding. Sand surface using #150-#180 grade fine-grit sandpaper. If you are finishing a piece made of closed grained hardwood, such as Maple or Birch, use #120 grade sandpaper. The coarser paper will open up the hard surface to more easily accept stain. Remove all the dust by vacuuming or wiping with a lint-free cloth or tack cloths.

2. Application of Gel Stain

Using a cloth, foam brush or paint pad applicator, apply a liberal amount of Gel Stain to the area you are working.  Divide your project into sections: drawer front, table or cabinet top, side of chest, etc.  Wipe off the excess stain using a clean cloth in the direction of the grain.  Be sure to remove all rag marks and smudges.

Due to the high content of urethane in Gel Stains, they may be used by themselves as a one-can finish.  We recommend applying 2-3 coats. However, for maximum durability,  apply Gel Topcoat over Gel Stain.

3. Application of Gel Topcoats

Using a cloth, foam brush or paint pad applicator, apply a liberal amount of Gel Top Coat.  Wipe of the excess evenly with the grain. Then using a clean, dry cloth, lightly polish the surface to remove any smudges or rag marks.  We recommend 2-3 coats.

4. Drying Information

Good conditions, 6-8 hours.

Cold or damp conditions, 24 hours

5. Coverage

200 square feet per quart.

Wipe-on Liquid Oil Base Application Guide 

1. Surface Preparation

All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Fill all nail holes with putty before sanding.  If wood fill has been used to cover nicks or holes, be sure the residue has been sanded well. If not, the area around the fill will not stain properly and may have a blotchy look. Sand surface using #150-#180 grade fine-grit sandpaper. If you are finishing a piece made of closed grained hardwood, such as Maple or Birch, use #120 grade sandpaper. The coarser paper will open up the hard surface to more easily accept stain. Remove all the dust by vacuuming or wiping with a lint-free cloth or tack cloths.

2. Drying Information

Wipe-on Liquid Stains and Top Coats can dry in 6-8 hours under ideal conditions (70% - 75% humidity). Cooler temperatures or higher humidity may extend the time needed for drying up to 12-24 hours or longer. Basements, even with a furnace, fireplace, and dehumidifier, are the worst environments for drying. Provide good ventilation and air movement with a fan to greatly improve dry time. If a stain coat is dry, you should be able to wipe your hand across the surface without feeling any tackiness. If your top coat is dry, sanding will produce a white powder.

3. Staining

Stains contain colored pigments that often settle to the bottom of the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take as much as five minutes to thoroughly mix the contents of the can so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up.

Do a test  on the piece first on the back, bottom or other inconspicuous area check the stain color before proceeding. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like the look, one coat staining is adequate. If the stain is too light or uneven, a second coat of stain may be needed before the topcoat is applied.

Wipe-on Liquid Stains can be applied using a foam brush, bristle brush, paint pad applicator, or a lint-free cloth. Wipe or brush on stain with your applicator.

Stain one surface at a time.  As you stain each area, remove excess stain by wiping with a clean cloth.  It is important to wipe off the stain thoroughly and consistently (in the direction of the grain) to get an evenly stained surface. A second coat, applied after the first one is dry, will give you a darker and deeper color. No more than two coats are recommended. Never sand a stain coat, only top coats.

Note: The white colorant in White Mist is titanium dioxide, which penetrates far less than the earth clay pigments found in all other stain colors. White stain is often called pickling stain as it lets much of the wood color show through. It is not paint and will not cover like paint. Apply White Mist as directed above. Be sure to wipe off the excess well to prevent lifting during the application of the top coat. A second coat will add a little more color. Let White Mist dry for 24 hours before a second coat or top coats.

4. Applying Top Coats

Wipe-on Liquid Top Coats are made with the highest quality pure urethane resin. They are as durable as polyurethane, but because of their thinner viscosity, urethanes are much easier to apply. Apply the top coat with a lint-free cloth, foam brush, or paint pad applicator, moving with the direction of the grain. For large surfaces, apply a liberal coat as quickly as possible, evening out surface with long, smooth strokes. When evening out the top coat, keep your applicator wet to provide lubrication. A dry applicator can drag on the surface and cause skid streaks. (These streaks may be easily removed after the surface has dried by buffing well and recoating). Buff between top coats with '0000' steel wool or #320 or finer grade sandpaper to produce a smooth surface. A minimum of 3 top coats is recommended.

5. Maintenance and Care

It's important to let your final coat cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use you project sooner, just treat it with special care during the curing period. To maintain the finish use General Finishes Lemon Oil or just a damp cloth. Paste wax is not recommended, because it builds up and yellows, thus becoming a maintenance problem.

6. Use caution in disposal of waste materials!!!!

When using oil based finishes, take careful  precautions when disposing of waste products.  Rags, steel wool or other waste soaked with these products may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded.   Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in sealed, water filled, metal container.  Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.

Note  To rejuvenate an old dull finish, simply clean surface well with mineral sprits and '0000' steel wool and apply one of General Finishes Top Coats.

 

 
Real Wood Furniture Finished Your Way Since 1955
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Pinewood Furniture Shop Canton Store CLOSED effective June 30th, 2007.
Canton area customers, please call our Manchester location 860-646-1631 for all your servicing needs.

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